Tofino, BC
What to do, where to stay, and when to come to the end of the road.
The seven things people actually come to Tofino for.
Surfing
Cox Bay, Chesterman and Long Beach hold a swell nearly every day of the year. Schools take beginners at the north end of Chesterman; the water runs 8 to 15 C, so a 4/3 wetsuit is standard.
Kayaking
Clayoquot Sound is sheltered paddling through kelp beds and islets. Half and full day trips run from the harbour, with water taxis out to the quieter launches.
Fishing charters
Salmon and halibut on the open Pacific, a short run from the harbour. Peak season is mid June to mid September, and four to eight hour trips are the norm.
Whale watching
Grey whales pass through in March and April, humpbacks feed offshore all summer, and resident orcas work the shoreline into the autumn.
Hot Springs Cove
Geothermal pools that step down to the sea, reached by boat or float plane. Make a day of it: the boardwalk in from the dock is worth the walk on its own.
Rainforest trails
Cedar boardwalks on posts over the muskeg, from the short Rainforest and Big Tree loops to the headland paths of the Wild Pacific Trail.
Storm watching
November to March the low pressure systems line up offshore and 3 to 6 metre seas hit the headlands. The beaches empty out and the rates drop.
Vacation rentals
Cabins, ocean view condos and full houses, fully furnished. Best value if you are staying more than a couple of nights.
Resorts and hotels
Rooms on the water with a restaurant and a front desk, from the big names on Cox Bay to smaller inns in town.
Hostels
The cheapest beds in town and the easiest way to meet people, walking distance from the harbour.
Campgrounds
Sites near the beach and along Kennedy Lake. Book well ahead for July and August, they fill months out.
Storms and the biggest surf run November to March. Grey whales pass through in March and April, and the rainforest is at its greenest. July and August bring the calmest water and the warmest days along with the crowds, so book months ahead. September is the one locals quietly recommend: warm water, thinning crowds and the swell returning.
See the full month-by-month calendar for daylight, water temperature, surf and rainfall.
Tofino sits at the end of Highway 4 on the west coast of Vancouver Island: about three hours from Nanaimo, four and a half from Victoria, and the last stretch through the mountains is slow and worth it. BC Ferries connects the island to the mainland at Nanaimo and Swartz Bay. Float planes land in the harbour and there is a small airport just south of town if you are short on days.
Check the tide before you walk a beach; flats that look endless at low water disappear at high. Pack layers and a proper rain shell whatever the month, and shoes you do not mind soaking. Fuel and groceries are limited and pricier at the end of the road, so fill up in Port Alberni on the way in. The beach and trail maps are worth a look before you set out.